Showing posts with label Vietnam. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vietnam. Show all posts

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Size Matters: Mekong Delta


Floating Market: The stick in the air let's passerbys know what this vendor is selling.

When travelling with someone, there’s a point where you click and you begin thinking, saying or feeling the same way about different situations. For mom and me, this happened on our two day Mekong Delta excursion from Vietnam to Cambodia.

Going to the chapel on the Mekong Delta.
Now, Cambodia doesn’t have a train system, so options are limited in terms of getting around. Nevertheless, travelling “overland” is a badge of honor for many backpackers due to the craziness of it and I figured that mom needed to have that experience as least once. So, we opted for the bus/boat option of crossing the border from Vietnam into Cambodia. The added benefit of this option was a two day “cruise” on the Mekong Delta, which included a visit to the floating market, an overnight stay on a floating hotel, dinner, and visit to Chau Doc Village, which is a Muslim community along the border.

We hopped on the bus and quickly learned that size really doesn’t matter in Vietnam; Vietnamese bus drivers are just as clinically insane as the taxi and tuk tuk drivers there.  Which means that we spent many hours driving towards the Mekong Delta surrounded by shouts of “Oh my God!”, “Ouch!”, “This is crazy!”, and my personal favorite, which was screamed from the back of the bus to the Vietnamese driver who was in the wrong lane passing four cars around a blind corner - “Look out!”

Once we arrived at one of the Mekong Delta piers, we boarded a slow boat to tour the floating market. The floating market is where farmers sell all of their goods to vendors who then take them into larger cities and towns and sell them to consumers. In Vietnam the floating market is essentially a wholesalers market; however, the Mekong isn’t just a place of business. People live on this river; their houses line the sides of the river or they float along in house boats. They bathe in this river; throw their trash into the river, children swim in this river, and mothers use the water for cooking, which the tour guide said was safe because the water was boiled. I was in awe… The Mekong Delta is a cornucopia of civic utility services (e.g. sewage, commerce, water, transportation, etc.) all rolled up into 15,000 square miles of brown, flowing, nastiness and I was seeing it with my own eyes!

As soon as we got back to the bus, mom broke out the hand sanitizer wipes (exactly what I was thinking) and we rode another few hours towards Chau Doc, where we were sleeping for the remainder of the night in a floating hotel. Mom and I didn’t know what to expect in terms of our accommodations because we booked a package deal through a travel agency and there wasn’t a lot of detail, but when we got there she said, "oh, this is really nice". (Exactly what I was thinking.) The room was large with two queen size beds, air conditioning, and a nice size shower and bathroom. We settled in nicely and twenty minutes later there was a knock on the door. “Um, Madams, sorry but we put you in the wrong room. You’re supposed to be on the other boat.”


The "view" from our hotel window.
We packed up our bags and made our way to the speed boat which took us to another floating hotel. I was behind my mom as she opened the door to our new room and all I had to do was read her body language to know that if she hadn’t been a Minister, she would have spewed forth a litany of curses the likes of Linda Blair in the Exorcist. Size mattered in this instance… Two lumpy twin beds and no AC, but we had mosquito nets, a bucket in the bathroom under the cold hand shower, and a family of geckos that blended in perfectly with the horrific wall paper. Perhaps I also forgot to mention that there were, not one, but three different locks on the door and we were instructed to diligently use all of them.

Mom: “I want to go back to the other hotel! How do we upgrade?” (Exactly what I was thinking.)

Tarantula Liquor - would you like a shot?
We had only ten minutes to get to dinner, so we stashed our stuff, locked all of the locks and decided we would figure it out later. Once at dinner, we met a couple from the U.S.  who was living in Canada, but working in Cambodia for the summer and we began chatting it up with them. Dinner, which consisted of vegetables and rice, was served and we kept talking while waiting for our fellow travellers to take a bite. During a lull in the conversation, mom leaned over and whispered in my ear, “I don’t want to eat this if they cooked it with Mekong water.” (Exactly what I was thinking.) Finally someone started eating, they didn't kill over so we all joined in. The other travellers at our table also started ordering copious amounts of alcohol, which I suspected was used like sanitary wipes for their intestines; but the food wasn’t bad at all and we enjoyed our night.

After dinner, we took a walk through the city and decided that we would stick it out in the room we had. It’s only one night, we can do it…

I’m starting to feel like a prima donna while telling you this story and it so does not bode well with the world traveller, She-Ra, I’m every woman, commando persona I’m trying to cultivate and nurture while on the road. This is my mom’s fault! So I’m going to stop right there. I won’t tell you about the rest of the night or how my mom’s pharmaceutical supplies actually came in handy when a Spanish teenager was accidently pushed into the river. I won’t even tell you how a six hour boat trip across the border the next day, turned into eleven hours or how a group of European travellers took out their frustration with the delay on the guide. I’ll will tell you that we made it to Cambodia, none the worse for wear, and when the boat pulled up to the dock at Phnom Penh, there were about 200+ people along the shore doing Zumba!!
I promise you that I cannot make this crap up!
Or maybe you'd enjoy Snake Juice.


Making Rice Paper on the Delta 



Chau Doc Village Mosque

Sunday, July 31, 2011

Things We Lost In The War: Vietnam

Every major city has its “thing”- the attraction, the event, or the entertainment that pulls in tourists; Orlando has Disney World, Cairo has the Pyramids, Gary, Indiana has Michael Jackson and the list goes on. Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) is no different than any other city except that its “thing” is war, specifically, the Vietnam War or the “Vietnam Conflict” as we learned to call it in school or the “American War” as the Vietnamese call it. For a place whose tourist industry is focused on such a brutal time in our history, it amazes me that HCMC is one of the happiest places I’ve travelled thus far and I could actually see myself living here.  Let me rephrase this: I actually could have seen myself living there; until we went to the War Remnants Museum.

OMG…

Initially our plan was to spend just 2 days in HCMC and then move on to Cambodia. However, once we (mom and I) got there and I learned that I could shoot an AK-47 and an M-16 at the gun range on the Cu Chi Tunnels tour… Well, as you can imagine, that whole plan went to the crapper. Where else am I going to get the opportunity to shoot guns like that?! Side story:  I actually said this to an Australian traveller I met in HCMC and with genuine incredulity he said, “You’re American! Don’t you have access to guns like that all the time?!”
Notre Dame

Crickets…. How do you respond to that?

It occurred to me in the moment, that some people really see Americans as gun toting, war mongers from the Wild, Wild, West! Not one to disappoint, mom and I booked another day at the hotel because although I’m not a “gun person” (I’ve actually NEVER fired a gun in my life), I’ve seen enough gun toting, war monger, and Wild, Wild, West movies starring Steven Segal to know that this might be a ridiculously cool experience.

So, we laid out our plan of attack.

Day 1: Delta team will get some much needed R&R and wake up at oh-eight-hundred hours on Day 2 to go on a self-guided expedition of the Notre Dame cathedral, the Post Office, Reunification Palace (Hoi Truong Thong Nhat), Ben Thanh Market, and the War Remnants Museum. Day 3 will commence with a half day tour of the Cu Chi Tunnels and will terminate with dinner. We will evacuate the premises by boat along the Mekong Delta, destination Cambodia, on Day 4.


Street vendors sell EVERYTHING!
Day two began and off we went. HCMC is awesome! The downtown area is amazingly easy to navigate and most of the “attractions” are in one area. Further, there are quite a few parks to sit and people watch and even more street vendors selling food and other goodies, so spending time outdoors without a guide is stress free and very pleasant. Crossing the streets can be a bit challenging though, but locals are always willing to help even with that!  Did I mention that it’s really cheap too! After lunch at this cool jazz restaurant where my paella dish and mom’s fried shrimp plate cost us an equivalent of $7 USD, we headed to the War Remnants Museum.

Napoleon is quoted as having said that, “History is the version of past events that people have decided to agree upon." For me, this explains why the Vietnamese perspective of the war looks nothing like what was taught in school.

Let me preface the rest of this post by saying, “THIS IS WHY I TRAVEL!!”

The War Remnants Museum is littered with things we lost in the war: tanks, planes, shells, guns, our minds etc. The first floor is filled with news clippings from around the world explaining and condemning the events occurring during the war. As the floors increase, the gravity and sadness of the past intensifies with names, ages, and pictures of villagers killed, photos of American soldiers carrying disemboweled corpses, and journalist’s recollection of horrific tales of torture and abuse. Further, with statistics and pictures of disfigured people and children born as recent as six years ago, the museum catalogs the lingering after effects of Agent Orange on the soil and the population. They also show how a plethora of unexploded mines in the country side have affected people even today.

OMG…
The Tunnels! Wayyyy tooo small!
Within ten minutes of entering the museum I had stopped taking photos. Thirty minutes later, my stomach was turning and I was sweating something fierce. One hour later, I leaned over and told me mother that there was no way in hell she was wearing that American Flag t-shirt she packed, while walking with me in Vietnam. “You can be proud without making us a walking target!”

Although I understand that there are always three sides to every story and I was appreciative of having gained another viewpoint, I couldn’t shake the melancholy that came over me. Do I really want to shoot guns tomorrow?

Answer: Um… YES!!

What' s my name?!


In my head he has Rick James' voice...

Drive thru fast food window - Vietnamese Style!

Fresh fruit at the market.
The Post Office is GORGEOUS!

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Upgrade Ya: Vietnam


So far I've been doing the backpacker thing (e.g. hostels, trains, walking, hanging laundry on the line, etc.) and I'm surviving; as a matter of fact, I'm thriving. I never imagined living with so few resources or access to "everyday luxuries" and loving it. Now, my mother took a vacation from her job ("like regular people do") and decided to join me as I travel through Vietnam, Laos, and Thailand and I wasn't sure that the "backpacker lifestyle" would suit her, so I warned her beforehand.

Her Response: "I'm cool. I'm down. I can do it."

I responded, "Okay," while I simultaneously booked a hotel instead of hostel for our first stop in Hanoi. (Upgrade!)

Ho Chi Minh's Memorial
I know my mother...

The hotel picked her up at the airport and she bounded in wearing Fila Skeletoes and carrying her reinforced backpack with its anti-theft straps that she ordered online at some specialty travel store. "Where did you find this place? It looks crazy outside! I hope you registered this address with the US Consulate," she said as she unpacked her backpack chocked full of pharmaceuticals and immediately began cleaning up our hotel room. After she demanded that I have the hotel launder my clothing instead of doing it myself (Upgrade!), I began side stepping her questions by telling her our plans for the next few days.

Me: "We are going to go to Ho Chi Minh's Memorial, the night market, Halong Bay and a few temples and pagodas."

Arms must be covered to enter?! Does this work?
Mom: "How are we going to get there? I know you've been avoiding tours, but it's not safe to go without someone."

I know my mother...

I had already booked our tours for the following days (Upgrade!) and along we went. We enjoyed our day at Halong Bay and met a great family from Australia. We even had fun on our tour of the city and decided to spend our last full day in Hanoi just shopping.

Out of all the things that could have happened in Hanoi, the one thing that I didn't want to happen, happened!


WAIT FOR IT....

My mother was pick pocketed while we were shopping. Lovely (insert heavy sarcasm here)...

A crippled, older, man saw her put her money in her back pocket and immediately started hopping around us while someone else was offering to polish my mom's shoe. The man brushed up against my mom and she instantly checked her pockets. Before I could coherently hear her say, "He took my money," she was already chasing him down! I turned around just as she grabbed him and spun his crippled tail around so fast that he did a pirouette on his good leg. "Give me back my money," she screamed as she ripped the money back out of this man's hand. I don't know who was more stunned, me or the man who stole her money!

Whoa... Mom's a gangsta! I don't know crap about my mother...

Halong Bay!
Adrenaline kicked in and my mom started walking fast and back towards the hotel. "I don't like this! I want to go to the hotel now! This isn't safe! I can't believe you are traveling like this!" After getting her to calm down, I convinced her that we should continue our day. "Why stop now? You just kicked an old man's ass and it's only 11 am!" We ended up laughing about the entire situation and she agreed to stay, but going to the night market was out of the question. The following day, we packed up our stuff and made it out to the train station.

Since the bus ride from Hanoi, Vietnam to Luang Prabang, Laos has been described as "the bus ride from hell" by many travellers on Lonely Planet, I also changed our travel plans for the remainder of the trip and booked train tickets down the Reunification Express from Hanoi to Hue and then Hue to Ho Chi Minh City (Upgrade!). I figured we could travel up through Cambodia to Thailand, instead of  across Laos. I'm happy I did this, because after the first train ride my mother was DONE!

"This train is nasty! I'm sleeping on my bags!"
Mom: "The next leg is 19 hours! I don't think so."

As soon as we got to the hotel in Hue, she cancelled the remainder of our train tickets and booked airline tickets (Upgrade!).

While in Hue, mom decided to try it my way and ditch the tours, so we compromised. She booked a private car and a driver to drive us to Hoi An.(Upgrade! Serious Upgrade!) Unfortunately, the driver was pulled over by the police for speeding and we ended up being held for well over an hour waiting for a replacement driver. Lovely (enter heavy sarcasm here) ... We still don't know what the hang up was, but being held on the side of the road by the Vietnam Police can throw a wrench into any day trip, so we ended up back at the hotel.

The following day we tried to recapture our site seeing day by renting a pair of bicycles for two hours and touring Hue on our own. When travelling I like explore by literally getting lost in neighborhoods and eating and shopping at random places. Unfortunately, my mother was still suffering from PTSD from her Hanoi experience and after realizing what I was trying to do, she cancelled that bike trip. Our two hour trip was cut down to thirty minutes and she hired two cyclo drivers to bike us around the city. (upgrade!)

I know that mothers are supposed to teach their daughters what to expect in life in terms of standards, but I think my mother just screwed me. As we head to Ho Chi Minh, I'm wondering if I'm going to be able to get back to my backpacker lifestyle once she leaves or if I've been spoiled beyond repair. Whatever the case, I now know two things: 1) I won't be doing my own laundry for awhile and 2) I definitely can't wait until the next family member or friend decides to join me; this is a nice reprieve from my new normal.

Thanks Mom!


The caves at Halong Bay!

Yes, that's a baby on the front!


Purple Palace

Our Australian Friends!
Ho Chi Minh's private quarters
Nine West in Hanoi!